As water is the main constituent of every horse, human or indeed any other animal, it should go without saying that the horse should have free access to water. But how much further should we take this? Clean water? Sterile water? Pure, demineralised water?
Well, obviously the first one, unless you like vets bills! But the second or the third? That's a bit extreme, and the trace amounts of other things in the water won't do the horse any harm and may even do him some good.
You might be surprised to learn that even a slight drop in a horse's hydration levels can cause a significant drop in performance, especially stamina and recovery rates. It also reduces a horse's ability fight off disease. A total lack of water is much more quickly fatal to a horse than a lack of feed.
Water is lost from the body through excretion (urine and faeces), breathing, sweat and evaporation, and during lactation in mares. Water must be consumed to maintain the fluid balance, for the gut to work efficiently, and for gut health. So how much water and when? Well, the short answer is as much as he wants and when he wants it. But it isn't quite that straight forwards...
If your horse is going to be doing fast work (racing or going cross county) then he doesn't need a belly full of water sloshing about, so restricting water intake for half an hour before the start is a good idea as long as the horse has had opportunity to drink his fill up until that point.
If your horse has been doing fast work, or been out hunting all day then allowing him to fill himself with cold water on an empty stomach while he's still breathing hard is a recipe for disaster. Walk him round until his breathing is back to something closer to the normal rate. Get him to take a small quantity of water with electrolytes (we'll come onto this in a bit)made up with a bit of warm water to take off the chill. Once he's settled and had a chance to relax he can be allowed to take on as much water as he needs, and probably will end up taking more because he's not over-loading his system in one go.
Keeping a Horse Hydrated
You might think it's as simple as giving him enough water and that's it. But you're not quite on the mark. That's a large part of it, yes, but there's little things that you can do to help him stay hydrated for longer.
1) feed fibre first... the fibre helps to hold water in the gut, releasing back to the bloodstream slowly, helping the horse to stay better hydrated. The more used to having the fibre the horse gets the better able his system is to hold the water within the gut.
2) electrolytes, or access to a salt lick, encourages the horse to drink more - its a natural reflex and once horses get over the novelty of a salt lick they will self-regulate the amount they take.
3) more fibre.... No. seriously!
So what affects how much water your horse needs?
the weather and temperature - a horse will lose more water on a warm windy day than on a cold still day by up to 35%
his work load and the type of work he's doing - a short, gentle hack will obviously be less likely to cause him to drip with sweat than a full blown cross country round unless he's very unfit, although the time might be about the same, the work load and stress on the horse's system is totally different. But equally, an endurance ride even over the greatest distances compared to a day hunting will produce similar amounts of water loss. The timings might be quite different but the work loads and the types of strain on the system are quite similar.
his conformation and muscle mass - a fit arab or thoroughbred has much less muscle mass than an equally fit Irish Draft or Welsh Cob. The heavier types find it much harder to disperse the heat produced during work, largely due to the amount of muscle compared to the surface area. This in turn leads to much greater sweating and water losses.
his health - a horse in poor condition, run down or sick will have a much larger requirement for water as his body tries to cope with the extra demands on his system.
his temperament - excitable horses tend to sweat up more, and have higher respiratory rates than more laid back characters, leading to higher water losses.
Electrolytes
Electrolytes are essential mineral ions required by the body to maintain water balance and also to fuel certain cellular processes including muscle function. The term is often then applied to salt and sugar compounds that are fed to horses to help with rehydration and recovery after heavy water losses and strenuous exercise. In this part we are referring to the latter.
Proprietary Electrolytes and how to use them
firstly - do you need to be using them? using them when you don't need to is money down the drain (or rather, into the muck heap) as they will just get excreted. if the horse has access to a salt lick, and not been working then the chances are he doesn't need electrolytes today.
secondly - you've decided he does need them, so how much should you give him and when? again, it comes down to the work he's doing. For hunting I feed two measures of electrolyte the night before in wet feed, and one in the morning before hunting, and then on return the horses will get two or three measures in two buckets of water on return. But for eventing at Novice level I only use half a measure in water after cross country.
thirdly - how should you give them tot he horse? Generally it it better for the horse to drink them dissolved in water, but not every horse will take them that way. If not then add them to a wet feed. Doing this helps to ensure that the horse starts to take on water, so reducing the chance of causing dehydration.
fourthly - make sure the horse has plenty of clean, fresh water available so that the horse can then take on water as he requires.
Proprietary Electrolytes and what to look for.
Generally speaking, any electrolyte supplement ought to consist of at least 50 percent chloride, 20 percent sodium, 15 percent of potassium, and only about one percent of other trace minerals, such as calcium and magnesium, and some form of sugar.
Firstly look at the basic ingredients of the tub or bottle (I would always recommend a liquid or powder form over a syringe as it's much easier to dehydrate the horse with a syringe as you cannot stimulate the water uptake as easily). The ingredients should be Common Salt (Sodium Chloride), Lo-Salt (Potassium Chloride), glucose or dextrose, Calcium Chloride or Calcium Acetate or Calcium Carbonate (the latter is the least soluble), Magnesium (one of several compounds is possible) and then one or more of the following:
Vitamin E
Citric Acid
flavouring
Vitamin B complexes
The vitamin E, vitamin B complexes and citric acids are all anti-oxidants that help to protect the horse's gut from the salts - too much salt without the anti-oxidants has been linked to gastric ulcers.
Vitamin B, and the sugar (fructose, glucose or dextrose) helps to stimulate the horse's gut to start working again, and as these are both water soluble and need to be dissolved for the gut bacteria to use them, it highlights the need for the horse to start taking on water with the electrolytes.
The flavouring just helps to encourage the horse to take the electrolytes dissolved in water or wet feed - it doesn't really matter what the flavour is, though much research suggests that horses prefer cherry or apple flavour to mint.
I hope this is of help, and if you have any questions feel free to ask!
Friday, 17 September 2010
Monday, 19 July 2010
Friday, 5 February 2010
The Importance of Fibre First
Think about this for a moment... the horse is a plains grazer. They evolved to eat grasses, bushes and to browse from low tree branches. They ate almost constantly, pausing only to snooze in the heat of the midday sun. Zebras and the Steppes ponies still live like this. They didn't evolve to eat large quantities of cereals, or to eat 2 or 3 large meals a day like we do.
We could all save ourselves money on feed and vets bills by taking a bit more notice of the amount of fibre that our horses eat. For years we thought that horses ate all day and slept at night, but recent studies have shown that horses will eat 65% of their total daily fibre intake over night. So saying "he's been out all day, 3 slices of hay will do for the night" just isn't good enough.
Studies have shown that horses with lowered fibre intake, such as racehorses, show increased levels of stereotyped behaviours (or vices like weaving, wind-sucking etc) and gastric disruption including ulcers. It is thought that behaviours such as wind-sucking stimulate the gut to give the horse a 'full feeling' or to produce digestive juices, and it is this that triggers gastric disruption and ulcers.
Another problem with feeding horses large quantities of grain, and less fibre is that it reduced the pH of the gut (makes it more acidic) which also increases the risk of gastric problems. It also explains why so often the pony that escapes and stuffs himself with the contents of a feed bin will suffer a bout of colic.
So now I hear you saying "but my horse is in hard work, he Needs hard feed to keep his energy up and the weight on him", or "my horse loses weight easily, I need to feed cereals to keep him looking well". My answer is are you feeding the right fibre? In both these cases the requirement is extra calories, and the general perception is that 'fibre' can't provide them. The horse is incredibly effective at turning fibre into energy, how much energy depends on the fibre source.
In the UK we tend to think of fibre for horses as being Grass, grass hay, grass haylage and "chaff" or "chop". Some of us may realise that sugar beet pulp is a fibre source too.
So lets go through the fibre sources and discuss their benefits and ways to feed them...
Grass - this is the obvious one. But is your grass good quality? is the pasture well managed? How long is your horse at pasture for each day? What about in the winter? Grass quality can vary immensely, and even the different types of grasses can make a difference. If the pasture was originally sown for dairy purposes then the chances are that it is a richer, more protein rich sward than one which was sown for horses. This is good if your horse works hard, but could pose a problem for fatties or laminitic horses.
So what about the winter? once the frost has hit the grass there is very little nutrition in it, but the fibre remains. The problem is that horses are like us in the sense that they like the taste of their food, and frost-bitten grass isn't as good as fresh spring grass! This, coupled with the lack of growth during winter, is why we often need to give hay in the field in winter. Along this line, whilst the amount of fibre in the grass is highest during the winter, the opposite is true during the summer, and this is why some horses get a bit green and runny in the spring.
Preserved Grass Forages (hay, haylage and silage)
Hay is the highest fibre, highest dry matter fibre source of this group. It can be old pasture or seed hay. Old pasture hay or meadow hay is often lower nutritional value and better suited to those that need fewer calories, but is often softer and more palatable to the fussy eater. Seed hay on the other hand is stalkier, but has a higher nutritional value. the prices of the 2 are fairly similar on a weight for weight basis. The main 2 problems that people have with hay is that it is difficult to store well and is prone to dustiness (which of course brings its own problems)
Haylage is a fairly modern invention borne out of horse owners requiring a lower dust, higher moisture content fibre source for horses, and preferably one that was easier to store. Good Haylage is a consistent, palatable and nutritious fibre source. It is higher calorie than almost any grass hay, and the vast majority of horses will eat it without any fuss. Commercial haylage producers in the UK will usually produce 2 or more grades - one suitable for most horses, and one that is aimed at the harder working horse. This is higher calorie, higher protein and possibly slightly lower moisture content.
Silage is normally a totally unsuitable fibre source for the horse, but some horses are fed it and do well. The problem is that commercial silages are often treated with chemicals or biological agents to help break down the fibres to provide cattle (the normally intended destination for silage) with certain nutrients not normally found in grasses. These 'innoculants' can at best be unpalatable, and at worst could make the silage poisonous to a horse. If you are ever to feed a horse on silage, please check that it has not been treated with anything, and that it is only grass.
Straw is not often fed to horses these days, but it could still be a useful fibre source. If your horse or pony is particularly prone to obesity or laminitis then chopped straw is a low calorie way to provide fibre. Short chopped fibre has the advantage of taking the horse longer to chew than long stem fibre like hay! Straw is not hugely palatable though, and you may need to add herbs like mint or fenugreek to encourage the horse to eat. Chopped straw is cheap however, and straw pellets are often used in low calorie or high fibre 'hard feeds'.
Sugarbeet is available as shreds (or pulp) or pellets, and molassed or unmoalssed, and some manufacturers make a quick-soak version. Sugarbeet is a by-product of the sugar industry in the UK. Once the sugar has been extracted from this turnip-like vegetable all that remains is the pulp. This is then dried at high temperature to preserve it (pelletising happens before it is dried). Some manufacturers add molassed back to the beet pulp before drying to improve the palatability for cattle, but horses will eat it unmolassed with no problems. Sugarbeet MUST be soaked before feeding to horses. Pellets generally require 24 hours, shreds 12 hours and quick-soak varieties will depend on the manufacturer's recommendations. The quick soak varieties are made by micronising (or effectively microwaving) the wet beet pulp. This causes the cell structure to change, allowing water to move between the cells much more quickly, which is why is soaks more quickly. Sugar beet is a great source of fibre for the horse as it is very digestible, and helps to hold water in the gut. This in turn helps to keep the hard working horse hydrated! Whilst this may not be ideal in every situation (such as racing where the horse should not carry a large quantity of water in its gut) it is the best thing for endurance horses, hunters and horses going cross country. Keeping the horse hydrated keeps him well, and helps him recover from hard work.
Alfalfa is becoming more common in the UK, but as it has a limited growing season it will probably never be as widespread as it is in the USA. Horse owners in the USA will usually feed alfalfa as hay instead of grass hay, but in the UK is is usually found as a short chop, and may be treated with molasses, oil or a combination of the two. It may be mixed with grass or straw to produce a lower calorie chop. Alfalfa is great for the working horse as it is high in good quality protein, ideal for helping the horse maintain condition and muscle mass. With oil added it is great for stamina, coat condition, and weight gain or maintenance. The only problem with alfalfa is that it can have a bitter taste to it which some horses do not like. This can often be countered with a touch of molasses, oil or herbs.
Some manufacturers sell a pelletised blend of alfalfa and sugarbeet which should be soaked before feeding. This is a great way to feed fibre, and most horses enjoy this as much as plain sugarbeet. It does look a little like something a cow left behind though!
Alfalfa, due to the supply issue in the UK can be expensive. That said, it is often more cost effective and better value for money than most short chop fibres if you are looking to put condition on a horse!
Grass Pellets or Grass Nuggets are basically compressed dried grass. They are useful if you need to add fibre to a ration, but they are relatively low in nutritional value otherwise. In that sense, they are a good way to provide fibre and 'something to do' to a stabled horse (though not necessarily a laminitic!)
Chaff or Chop This is usually a blend of inexpensive chopped fibres, normally grass, and straw, with molasses added to improve palatability. They are usually inexpensive, and whilst they provide some fibre to the horse, the amount of sugar they provide undoes the good. Sugar does the same as starch in cereals and increases the acidity of the horse's gut. If you are able to find a low sugar version, then it makes for a very easy way to provide the horse with low calorie fibre.
So, now to making a choice and getting the feeding right...
Broadly speaking we can categorise fibre into long stem, short chopped or soaked fibre sources. Short choppped and soaked fibre sources take the horse longer to eat, which alleviates boredom, and encourages a steady flow of fibre through the digestive system.
If you are trying to help a laminitic or overweight horse to increase the fibre intake, or you need to provide a low calorie fibre for another reason, you should try to feed a short chopped fibre and a soaked fibre. This helps to ensure the horse takes in enough fluids, and helps to ensure he is kept busy!
Leave it in 2 buckets with him overnight (and the day if he's in!), once he gets used to the novelty of having 2 buckets he will learn to eat the feed steadily and not just wolf it down!
If you are feeding a horse for hard work or weight gain then try feeding all 3 forms of fibre. Use short chopped fibre to slow down the rate he eats what little hard feed you'll be giving him, use long stem fibre to keep him occupied. If he eats it too quickly put it into a haynet with small holes to slow down the rate he can get at it. Also feed a bucket of one of the soaked fibres, if you don't need much condition, or he's only in moderate work choose unmolassed sugarbeet. If he's in hard work or needs a lot of condition go for alfalfa pellets or the sugarbeet/alfalfa blended pellets.
Once you have the fibre sorted, you'll be surprised how much less hard feed you need, and in many cases the horse will be happier in himself, vices will reduce if not cease, and the signs of gastric disturbance will almost certainly disappear.
We could all save ourselves money on feed and vets bills by taking a bit more notice of the amount of fibre that our horses eat. For years we thought that horses ate all day and slept at night, but recent studies have shown that horses will eat 65% of their total daily fibre intake over night. So saying "he's been out all day, 3 slices of hay will do for the night" just isn't good enough.
Studies have shown that horses with lowered fibre intake, such as racehorses, show increased levels of stereotyped behaviours (or vices like weaving, wind-sucking etc) and gastric disruption including ulcers. It is thought that behaviours such as wind-sucking stimulate the gut to give the horse a 'full feeling' or to produce digestive juices, and it is this that triggers gastric disruption and ulcers.
Another problem with feeding horses large quantities of grain, and less fibre is that it reduced the pH of the gut (makes it more acidic) which also increases the risk of gastric problems. It also explains why so often the pony that escapes and stuffs himself with the contents of a feed bin will suffer a bout of colic.
So now I hear you saying "but my horse is in hard work, he Needs hard feed to keep his energy up and the weight on him", or "my horse loses weight easily, I need to feed cereals to keep him looking well". My answer is are you feeding the right fibre? In both these cases the requirement is extra calories, and the general perception is that 'fibre' can't provide them. The horse is incredibly effective at turning fibre into energy, how much energy depends on the fibre source.
In the UK we tend to think of fibre for horses as being Grass, grass hay, grass haylage and "chaff" or "chop". Some of us may realise that sugar beet pulp is a fibre source too.
So lets go through the fibre sources and discuss their benefits and ways to feed them...
Grass - this is the obvious one. But is your grass good quality? is the pasture well managed? How long is your horse at pasture for each day? What about in the winter? Grass quality can vary immensely, and even the different types of grasses can make a difference. If the pasture was originally sown for dairy purposes then the chances are that it is a richer, more protein rich sward than one which was sown for horses. This is good if your horse works hard, but could pose a problem for fatties or laminitic horses.
So what about the winter? once the frost has hit the grass there is very little nutrition in it, but the fibre remains. The problem is that horses are like us in the sense that they like the taste of their food, and frost-bitten grass isn't as good as fresh spring grass! This, coupled with the lack of growth during winter, is why we often need to give hay in the field in winter. Along this line, whilst the amount of fibre in the grass is highest during the winter, the opposite is true during the summer, and this is why some horses get a bit green and runny in the spring.
Preserved Grass Forages (hay, haylage and silage)
Hay is the highest fibre, highest dry matter fibre source of this group. It can be old pasture or seed hay. Old pasture hay or meadow hay is often lower nutritional value and better suited to those that need fewer calories, but is often softer and more palatable to the fussy eater. Seed hay on the other hand is stalkier, but has a higher nutritional value. the prices of the 2 are fairly similar on a weight for weight basis. The main 2 problems that people have with hay is that it is difficult to store well and is prone to dustiness (which of course brings its own problems)
Haylage is a fairly modern invention borne out of horse owners requiring a lower dust, higher moisture content fibre source for horses, and preferably one that was easier to store. Good Haylage is a consistent, palatable and nutritious fibre source. It is higher calorie than almost any grass hay, and the vast majority of horses will eat it without any fuss. Commercial haylage producers in the UK will usually produce 2 or more grades - one suitable for most horses, and one that is aimed at the harder working horse. This is higher calorie, higher protein and possibly slightly lower moisture content.
Silage is normally a totally unsuitable fibre source for the horse, but some horses are fed it and do well. The problem is that commercial silages are often treated with chemicals or biological agents to help break down the fibres to provide cattle (the normally intended destination for silage) with certain nutrients not normally found in grasses. These 'innoculants' can at best be unpalatable, and at worst could make the silage poisonous to a horse. If you are ever to feed a horse on silage, please check that it has not been treated with anything, and that it is only grass.
Straw is not often fed to horses these days, but it could still be a useful fibre source. If your horse or pony is particularly prone to obesity or laminitis then chopped straw is a low calorie way to provide fibre. Short chopped fibre has the advantage of taking the horse longer to chew than long stem fibre like hay! Straw is not hugely palatable though, and you may need to add herbs like mint or fenugreek to encourage the horse to eat. Chopped straw is cheap however, and straw pellets are often used in low calorie or high fibre 'hard feeds'.
Sugarbeet is available as shreds (or pulp) or pellets, and molassed or unmoalssed, and some manufacturers make a quick-soak version. Sugarbeet is a by-product of the sugar industry in the UK. Once the sugar has been extracted from this turnip-like vegetable all that remains is the pulp. This is then dried at high temperature to preserve it (pelletising happens before it is dried). Some manufacturers add molassed back to the beet pulp before drying to improve the palatability for cattle, but horses will eat it unmolassed with no problems. Sugarbeet MUST be soaked before feeding to horses. Pellets generally require 24 hours, shreds 12 hours and quick-soak varieties will depend on the manufacturer's recommendations. The quick soak varieties are made by micronising (or effectively microwaving) the wet beet pulp. This causes the cell structure to change, allowing water to move between the cells much more quickly, which is why is soaks more quickly. Sugar beet is a great source of fibre for the horse as it is very digestible, and helps to hold water in the gut. This in turn helps to keep the hard working horse hydrated! Whilst this may not be ideal in every situation (such as racing where the horse should not carry a large quantity of water in its gut) it is the best thing for endurance horses, hunters and horses going cross country. Keeping the horse hydrated keeps him well, and helps him recover from hard work.
Alfalfa is becoming more common in the UK, but as it has a limited growing season it will probably never be as widespread as it is in the USA. Horse owners in the USA will usually feed alfalfa as hay instead of grass hay, but in the UK is is usually found as a short chop, and may be treated with molasses, oil or a combination of the two. It may be mixed with grass or straw to produce a lower calorie chop. Alfalfa is great for the working horse as it is high in good quality protein, ideal for helping the horse maintain condition and muscle mass. With oil added it is great for stamina, coat condition, and weight gain or maintenance. The only problem with alfalfa is that it can have a bitter taste to it which some horses do not like. This can often be countered with a touch of molasses, oil or herbs.
Some manufacturers sell a pelletised blend of alfalfa and sugarbeet which should be soaked before feeding. This is a great way to feed fibre, and most horses enjoy this as much as plain sugarbeet. It does look a little like something a cow left behind though!
Alfalfa, due to the supply issue in the UK can be expensive. That said, it is often more cost effective and better value for money than most short chop fibres if you are looking to put condition on a horse!
Grass Pellets or Grass Nuggets are basically compressed dried grass. They are useful if you need to add fibre to a ration, but they are relatively low in nutritional value otherwise. In that sense, they are a good way to provide fibre and 'something to do' to a stabled horse (though not necessarily a laminitic!)
Chaff or Chop This is usually a blend of inexpensive chopped fibres, normally grass, and straw, with molasses added to improve palatability. They are usually inexpensive, and whilst they provide some fibre to the horse, the amount of sugar they provide undoes the good. Sugar does the same as starch in cereals and increases the acidity of the horse's gut. If you are able to find a low sugar version, then it makes for a very easy way to provide the horse with low calorie fibre.
So, now to making a choice and getting the feeding right...
Broadly speaking we can categorise fibre into long stem, short chopped or soaked fibre sources. Short choppped and soaked fibre sources take the horse longer to eat, which alleviates boredom, and encourages a steady flow of fibre through the digestive system.
If you are trying to help a laminitic or overweight horse to increase the fibre intake, or you need to provide a low calorie fibre for another reason, you should try to feed a short chopped fibre and a soaked fibre. This helps to ensure the horse takes in enough fluids, and helps to ensure he is kept busy!
Leave it in 2 buckets with him overnight (and the day if he's in!), once he gets used to the novelty of having 2 buckets he will learn to eat the feed steadily and not just wolf it down!
If you are feeding a horse for hard work or weight gain then try feeding all 3 forms of fibre. Use short chopped fibre to slow down the rate he eats what little hard feed you'll be giving him, use long stem fibre to keep him occupied. If he eats it too quickly put it into a haynet with small holes to slow down the rate he can get at it. Also feed a bucket of one of the soaked fibres, if you don't need much condition, or he's only in moderate work choose unmolassed sugarbeet. If he's in hard work or needs a lot of condition go for alfalfa pellets or the sugarbeet/alfalfa blended pellets.
Once you have the fibre sorted, you'll be surprised how much less hard feed you need, and in many cases the horse will be happier in himself, vices will reduce if not cease, and the signs of gastric disturbance will almost certainly disappear.
Saturday, 25 July 2009
Getting ready for a day Hunting
Getting Ready for Hunting...
Friday Night
1) Get horse in as usual, and wash legs and other muddy bits off.
I use hot water and a sponge with a bit of hibiscrub on. It cleans everything up without too much fuss, and if you don’t use too much you don’t have too much water left on the legs afterwards and they dry quickly.
If I need to wash other bits off I use hot damp sponge with soapy water and follow it around the horse with a sweat scraper, and make sure I put a fleece on under other rugs to help them dry off and stay warm.
Don’t worry about getting socks white at this stage – I always do that in the morning, otherwise they’re only green again in 2 minutes!
2) Put into stable, groom thoroughly and plait up.
Giving the horse a good brush now means there’s not too much to do in the morning, and makes sure you catch any little cuts or grazes that need covering in cream before you go hunting.
I stitch plaits in because they look neater and stay in for longer. It only takes me an extra few minutes for stitching as opposed to using bands, but it does take a bit of practice. I also plait the tail up and stitch that in – it saves washing it all the time.
Start off by brushing the tail out thoroughly. Then start plaiting the tail as normal with a ‘french plait’ and continue all the way to about 2 inches above the bottom of the dock. Then start to add bigger pieces of tail in as you plait until all the tail is included. Plait down to the bottom of the tail and use 3 or 4 bands to hold it in. Fold the tail up against the dock and stitch in. It’s a kinder way of doing it than using tape as it doesn’t pull on the hair or skin in the same way. It’s also more secure.
3) Feed, Hay and water as usual.
Feed should be as slow release as possible. Sugar beet was not traditionally fed to hunters as it was thought to sit in their stomachs and give them colic when they were galloping, but that’s a myth. It’s actually ideal because it is slow release and helps keep the horse hydrated throughout the day. I feed the sugar beet in a second bucket (a full tub-trug) and leave it in overnight.
Add as much fibre as your horse will eat as it also helps to hold moisture in the digestive system and also to keep the gut working whilst the horse is working hard. Both mine get alfa oil and at least 2 scoops in the feed.
The mix i use is baileys number 6 for one horse, and the other one who can’t have barley gets full fat soya and alfalfa&oil with baileys lo-cal (or stud balancer if he’s really hunting hard). The high oil content of both feeds adds more slow release energy, and also is very calorie dense – gram for gram you get nearly 3 times as much energy in fats and oils as you do in starches and sugars. This means you are less likely to overload the stomach with feed whilst trying to keep enough food going in to keep the weight on!
I always add a measure of electrolytes to feed the night before hunting, and make sure thy have extra water. The idea is to get the horse to drink plenty before they start working hard, and it’s best to do this over a number of hours, rather than give them salts only a couple of hours before, which can have the opposite effect (dehydration) as the horse doesn’t have enough time to take in enough water.
Unless the horse is overweight I never restrict hay (or haylage) intake – ours always get slightly more than we think they will eat in one night, and the spare rolls over into the next night’s supply. Again, Fibre is the priority!
4) Sort out feed, rugs and bandages for tomorrow.
At this point I always make sure that haynets are ready for the journey, and if you use haynets in the stable make up tomorrow night’s now so you don’t have to do it when you’re tired, cold and hungry! I also prepare sugar beet for the morning and (in a separate bucket) for tomorrow night if I’m not using speedibeet.
Make sure any rugs you’ll need are to hand, and that travel boots or bandages are ready too – you don’t want to be hunting around for them at sparrow-fart tomorrow morning!
I also put out grooming kit, blue rinse (for white bits), and spare plaiting kit for tomorrow morning and spare buckets, sponges and electrolytes ready for our return tomorrow night.
5) Set fair for the night.
I then make sure the horse is comfortable and that hay and water are topped up. If the horse’s legs are still wet then I will put fleece bandages on to prevent mud fever getting into damp skin. If not, then I put plenty of coat conditioner onto the lower legs (I use alva dazzle, though it isn’t the cheapest available, it does last ages, and its natural so doesn’t strip the skin of its natural oils. It also is antibacterial because of the essential oils in it)
6) Sort out your kit.
If you haven’t already done it earlier in the week clean tack, boots, jacket and numnah etc. I try to do it earlier in the week, but it doesn’t always work out that way!
If you have a wool hunting jacket, a stiff brush is brilliant for taking the mud stains out! The same goes for your hat silk/velvet. Though if it doesn’t work, then try holding your velvet hat cover (not the hat!) over a steaming kettle and rubbing with a sponge.
Make sure the soles of your boots are clean – they last longer then, and it looks smarter. If you wear spurs, make sure they are cleaned up too.
A white numnah is technically correct, but most people use a black or brown numnah these days. A numnah rather than a square is preferred; it’s also less to clean afterwards!
7) Early night!
Saturday Morning
1) Feed up.
Try to feed at least an hour and a half before you plan to travel, this not only gives the horse chance to digest breakfast before you travel, but it also gives you plenty of time to do the other bits and pieces.
2) Muck out.
I know this might sound stupid and obvious, but do it now because you won’t want to do it later. It means you will be able to leave your horse in peace once he’s cleaned up too! If the bed is really wet I might leave the floor clear to dry, but normally I just leave it down as a job for Sunday!
3) Groom, check plaits and clean white bits.
I start by checking the plaits, and re-stitching any that need it. Then give the horse a thorough grooming, and spot treat any stable stains. Put on fleece/day rug/ sheet as appropriate. I tend to use a fleece as it helps dry them off on the way home, and if it’s really cold I’ll put a sheet over the top.
Once this is done I then do a final wash of white bits, including blue rinse. I then scrub out the feet, giving a good check of the shoes too.
Squeegee out the hair thoroughly and then put on fleece bandages again (partly to help dry off and partly to help keep clean!).
Finish off with a coat of hoof oil just for smartness sake! I tend to take the hoof oil with me to apply just before I get on as well.
4) Put kit into wagon/car.
A check list is always useful, no matter how often you do it! Saddle, bridle, boots for horse if any, jacket, hat, boots, spurs if worn, stock and pin (or tie). Cap money, mobile phone. Map. Hipflask! Flask of tea/coffee and a sandwich.
I don’t travel with tack on – just a preference, I find it’s just as easy to put a bridle on in the trailer and then saddle on when I get him out. Doesn’t suit everyone though.
5) Load up and get going!
Aim to park up a couple of miles from the meet, and allow yourself 20 minutes to hack down the road to get there. It gives you and the horse chance to relax after your hectic morning! Remember not to park in villages or gateways, and only use farm yards if directed by the hunt, or with the land owners express permission.
Saturday Evening
1) Back at the box.
First off, loosen your horse’s girth as you walk the last couple of hundred yard back. Once there hop off, loosen the girth again and put headcollar on over the bridle. Tie up your horse, and unlock the vehicle.
Fish out the rug(s) and put them over your horse’s quarters whilst you take the saddle off. Once the saddle is off put the rugs on properly. The idea is to keep the horse as warm as possible when he is tired and potentially dehydrated.
Then take off the bridle, and any boots the horse has on. Replace with travel boots if used. I don’t use travel boots on the way home because their legs are always very muddy!
Load up and give the horse a haynet. Most will tuck in happily, but don’t worry if they don’t, some need a drink first, and others need to settle down first.
Take a few minutes to have a cup of tea/coffee from your flask, and eat your sandwich. You need to get some energy back too!
2) Back home again, washing off.
I try to make the next bit as quick as possible, partly because I’m tired, but mostly for the horse’s sake. I don’t turn out when I get them home unless they are very unsettled, as I feel they are better off being monitored and kept warm. If they are still wound up then a gallop round the field and a roll can make all the difference! Use the time they are in the field to make up some warm sugarbeet (see below) and take your tack in from the vehicle.
First I put electrolytes in a bucket and put a little hot water on them and then fill up the bucket with cold water. The hot water just takes the chill off and makes it a bit more palatable for the horse. My big lad will drink 3 buckets like this after a hard day! The Other one won’t drink electrolyte but will take plain water, so I just offer him 1 bucket at this stage.
Then I make up 2 buckets of warm water, just slightly hotter than hand hot (it cools off quickly). Keep one for rinsing off, use the other one with hibiscrub to wash sweat out of the coat. Check legs and belly for nicks, grazes and thorns. Work as quickly as you can. Wash his face and round his ears too, and check his mouth for cuts or splits.
Rinse thoroughly and squeegee off thoroughly. Put fleece rug back on and check legs and belly again (you’ll surprised how often you miss things when you’re washing off!) and check shoes.
3) Make the horse comfortable.
Put the horse back in the stable with hay and plenty of water. Leave him for 5 minutes to have a wee in peace, or a roll if he wants.
The next thing I do if I’m using speedibeet is to make up the sugar beet with hot water. If I’m using long soak sugar beet then I drain some and add hot water. This is equivalent to the traditional bran mash, but much better for the horse as he can make better use of it than he can of bran. Bran can actually make them more constipated, or cause colic.
I then leave the horse for an hour or so with just hay and water. It is important to let him relax, and to get his stomach/gut working properly before you feed him. I take the opportunity to take the tack out of the vehicle, take my kit inside and have a cup of tea!
4) Feed up.
Once the horse has had an hour or so to munch on the hay, check he is warm enough but not too hot (some will sweat up again after you wash them off).
Prepare the feed. Remember to add electrolyte to the feed to help the horse’s muscle recover, help him rehydrate, and to help prevent cramps (tying up) and colic.
Add more hay if necessary, and top up the water again. My big lad will eat 2 slices of hay in an hour, and 3 water buckets will be dried out, licked clean and turned over!
5) Have your dinner, a hot bath etc.
6) Last thing before you go to bed.
Go out, check he is the right temperature, check hay and water again and top up if you need to. Skip out the bed and then leave him for the night.
Sunday Morning
Take off stable bandages, check legs over, good thorough grooming, and feed as normal.
I ride from the stable on Sunday morning. Just a gentle stroll out to check he isn’t stiff, sore or lame.
Then I turn him out for the day, and go and clean his tack!. He gets Mondays off.
Thursday, 6 March 2008
Welcome
Hello, and welcome to my blog.
I don't know how you got here- but then I guess it doesn't matter.
Whether you are here looking for help, or just to find out more please keep reading and if you need more information on anything, just ask.
I have been involved in horses for the last 20 years, and in the brass band world for the last 10.
My experience of horses extends beyond their day to day care - I have a degree in Animal Nutrition and am qualified through the Pony Club to teach. I have been teaching for the last 5 years, and thoroughly enjoy it. I believe that many instructors teach children like children, and that this ends up holding back their progress. So I teach adults and children in the same way, just modifying the language and pace to suit the individual.
I also believe that the mind is the most powerful tool that a rider has, and I aim to get every rider I teach to use their mind to their advantage. It's amazing how much a spot of determination helps get a horse to co-operate, or how well 'thinking slow' can steady a trot without losing impulsion.
I have been involved in the last year with developing a new range of horse feed supplements, which has been really interesting. The products are due to go on sale shortly via White Horse Nutrition which is part of A-One Feed Supplements who will be making the supplements. The supplements are all high quality and do not contain any fillers or by-products that have no nutritional value.
My riding experience is varied, but largely centers around Hunting, Eventing and cross-country. I have schooled on a large number of horses and my current horse is 12year old, 16.2hh Irish Draft, Ronnie. I have had him since 2004 and we have done everything and he tries hard to please. We mostly hunt and event but do a little show jumping and even the occasional dressage test.
My Musical background is equally varied, although I have possibly had less formal tuition than a9lot of people. I started learning to play the flute aged 9, and had lessons all the way through until I was 18, reaching grade 7 along the way. I played in a number of duets, quartets etc, and played 1st flute in Northallerton Area Schools Wind Orchestra until I was 15, including a tour to Paris and a couple of Massed Schools Bands events.
At around 13 I started teaching myself to play the clarinet when my little sister stopped playing, but I never really did anything with it, I only played for fun.
At 15 I saw an advert in the local paper that had been placed by Yarm and District Brass Band (now Lockwood Brass Band) who were wanting to recruit young players to boost their numbers. They were willing to provide the instrument if the player provided the enthusiasm and dedication. I signed up, and after an half hour lesson I was left to get on with it. I played with YDBB for 3 years, and played in national and regional finals with them on 2nd and 3rd cornet.
I then had a break whilst I was at university and whilst I settled into a new job. In Feb 2007 I joined Northallerton Silver Band, initially as a 2nd cornet. By the end of the first week I was playing repiano where I remained for 8 months, then I was moved to front row to play 1st cornet. Then in Jan 2008 I was made Principal (Solo) Cornet. I'm still not as convinced of my ability as the rest of the band seem to be, but maybe that's more to do with my confidence than anything else!
In the coming days/weeks/months I shall be posting information about Horse Feeds, Stable Management, Riding, and if you're really lucky even some Photos. I will also be passing comment on our upcoming concerts and rehearsals.
I don't know how you got here- but then I guess it doesn't matter.
Whether you are here looking for help, or just to find out more please keep reading and if you need more information on anything, just ask.
I have been involved in horses for the last 20 years, and in the brass band world for the last 10.
My experience of horses extends beyond their day to day care - I have a degree in Animal Nutrition and am qualified through the Pony Club to teach. I have been teaching for the last 5 years, and thoroughly enjoy it. I believe that many instructors teach children like children, and that this ends up holding back their progress. So I teach adults and children in the same way, just modifying the language and pace to suit the individual.
I also believe that the mind is the most powerful tool that a rider has, and I aim to get every rider I teach to use their mind to their advantage. It's amazing how much a spot of determination helps get a horse to co-operate, or how well 'thinking slow' can steady a trot without losing impulsion.
I have been involved in the last year with developing a new range of horse feed supplements, which has been really interesting. The products are due to go on sale shortly via White Horse Nutrition which is part of A-One Feed Supplements who will be making the supplements. The supplements are all high quality and do not contain any fillers or by-products that have no nutritional value.
My riding experience is varied, but largely centers around Hunting, Eventing and cross-country. I have schooled on a large number of horses and my current horse is 12year old, 16.2hh Irish Draft, Ronnie. I have had him since 2004 and we have done everything and he tries hard to please. We mostly hunt and event but do a little show jumping and even the occasional dressage test.
My Musical background is equally varied, although I have possibly had less formal tuition than a9lot of people. I started learning to play the flute aged 9, and had lessons all the way through until I was 18, reaching grade 7 along the way. I played in a number of duets, quartets etc, and played 1st flute in Northallerton Area Schools Wind Orchestra until I was 15, including a tour to Paris and a couple of Massed Schools Bands events.
At around 13 I started teaching myself to play the clarinet when my little sister stopped playing, but I never really did anything with it, I only played for fun.
At 15 I saw an advert in the local paper that had been placed by Yarm and District Brass Band (now Lockwood Brass Band) who were wanting to recruit young players to boost their numbers. They were willing to provide the instrument if the player provided the enthusiasm and dedication. I signed up, and after an half hour lesson I was left to get on with it. I played with YDBB for 3 years, and played in national and regional finals with them on 2nd and 3rd cornet.
I then had a break whilst I was at university and whilst I settled into a new job. In Feb 2007 I joined Northallerton Silver Band, initially as a 2nd cornet. By the end of the first week I was playing repiano where I remained for 8 months, then I was moved to front row to play 1st cornet. Then in Jan 2008 I was made Principal (Solo) Cornet. I'm still not as convinced of my ability as the rest of the band seem to be, but maybe that's more to do with my confidence than anything else!
In the coming days/weeks/months I shall be posting information about Horse Feeds, Stable Management, Riding, and if you're really lucky even some Photos. I will also be passing comment on our upcoming concerts and rehearsals.
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